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Can't delete M1XIN zones, can't add Areas...

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Greetings;

I recently had to replace my M1 Gold and M1XEP. 5.3.10 and 5.0.46 respectively. RP is 2.0.40.

Once I received the new units, I updated the SN in the M1XEP, found the new M1XEP IP and uploaded the DB to the panel. Initially it didnt want to receive all of the data. I didnt think much of it at the time.

Today I decided to add some additional sensors to the system (hardwired). In the process of wiring them, the DIP switches of one of the M1XIN moved and I couldnt get the sensors to work. When I tried to ENROLL, #04 showed up as #11 and I ended up with a 16 new zones, which I dont have. I corrected the dip switch positions to #04 and reinrolled. All is working, EXCEPT:

Whenever I log on with RP, it shows the 16 zones of M1XIN #11 still in the SYSTEM. When I tell the conflict resolver to upload the DB into the panel, it refuses, because those zones dont exist

So I tried downloading the #11s 16 zones into the DB, saved/disconnected/reconnected. Then I right-clicked the hardwire #11 and asked it to REMOVE. I can tell from the dialog box that it is removing from the DB and SENDING to the panel. So far so good. I do a save and check for conflict. The same non-existent 16 zones show up again!

I also configured the dipswitches to #11, re-enrolled, synced and deleted by right-clicking. No dice.

Any ideas?

The next problem is similar. I had an AREA 6 with my previous panel. When I did the original sync, it didnt want to upload it to the panel. It says that it is uploading and if I do a download, it does do it too. But once I disconnect and reconnect, it shows the conflict again, saying that Area 6 doesnt exit on the the system I tried deleting it from the DB and adding again. I also tried adding areas 7&8. Same behaviour

Any ideas what might be going on here?



Cheers!

Had a 5+ hour utility outage - time to think about graceful shutdown when the UPS is exhausted...

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Had a storm roll though this morning and the power went off at about 5:30 AM.  Was restored a bit after 11 AM.  Very unusual.  We usually get a short, couple minutes at the most, outage every couple months.  Have a couple network nodes that use a Raspberry Pi so have possible SD card corruption issues if powered down without proper software shutdown.  These are powered by a UPS.  Have thought about detecting loss of AC power and sending a command over the network to shut down.  Need to do a few other adjustments too like figuring out what really needs to be on the UPS to maximize run time.

IE Gravestone

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Here went to Firefox mostly and lately Chrome.  New Edge is just an advertisement these days.  

Personally here started with Netscape in the 1990's.

I did have a BBS in Chicago running on a Commodore Pet computer connected to multiple phone lines using Ventel modems at the time. (1980's). A bit of a phone freak at the time. (found out how to manage trunk lines)
 
IE1

 

Moto power g 2021 phone on Cricket looses connectivity for no apparent reason

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Have not been able to find any reporting of similar issues on the web but happens to both our familys phones.  We had ATT before with Samsung phones and they pretty much just worked.  Limited signal in the basement so a few issues but that's understandable.  Switched to Cricket and Moto phone and the phone will just stop connecting at what seem like random times and places.  Usually turning on airplane mode and then turning that off will restore cell connection (and show decent signal strength).  Very frustrating.  Otherwise our phones work ok and they have the latest updates.  Took them in to the store and they said everything looked good.  But the troubles continue.  We are about to just get new phones to try to fix the issue but wondering if this is a phone or Cricket issue.  Would be very disappointing to get new phones and still have the issue.  And transferring back to ATT is difficult because now they consider it not a change of company so not any deals.  Want to keep the numbers.  I suppose we could port them to someone else but have limited choices on usable signal at home.  I think Verizon has usable signal based on their tower location.  That's the only one.  I know TMobile has poor signal here.

email provider suggestions?

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Have an old sbcglobal.net and a yahoo and gmail address.  Have used the sbcglobal for most things even now that I have dropped ATT as my internet provider.  Seems like it might be time to go to a new provider.  Figured it would be better to keep some things separate from google but might do that.  The yahoo address is giving me trouble because firefox always redirects to att when trying to log in and that doesn't work.  I can use a different browser and it stays at mail.yahoo.com and logs in fine.  Just wanted to get some suggestions to widen my options...

HAI Leviton OmniStat 2's

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Has anyone been able to source OmniStat 2s? I just had two of my Omnistats go black screen after a bad storm. I had one spare and it seems to be working fine but I still need to replace one. I doubt I'll be able to find one at this point but I have to try.

 

Another question - is it possible to use any other thermostats and interface with the Omni Pro system? It's really sad what Leviton has done to the Omni product, but I digress as I know there are enough threads on this already.

Cell requirement for HD Voice capability?

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Trying to troubleshoot connectivity issues with Cricket so put the SIM card in my previous Samsung J7 that was used with ATT.  They told us at the time it wasn't compatible but not the details.  Got a message from them now that the phone doesn't have HD Voice.  Calls don't work but text and internet does.  Is HD voice a requirement for all providers for 5G?  Just wanting to understand the details as I need to get a newer phone for Cricket and may go for a used one.

Anyone with a Hubitat?

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I wanted to get rid of my Smartthings because it wasn't that great, and I purchased Hubitat instead. I do like it, but its not the more user-friendly.  So I also use Homebridge, which I have been very happy with. So Homebridge connects to my Omni Pro II and connects to Alexa, and connects to the Apple universe.  

 

So, now I want to connect my Hubitat to Homebridge. There actually three solutions out there, but I'm using the one from Tonesto7.  Homebridge show a few Hubitat devices, but no Homebridge devices on Hubitat?  What am I doing wrong?  I'm running Homebridge on a Synology NAS which has been easier than a Pi.


M1 armed in night mode but alarm doesnt go off when violated

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I have had the alarm go off before when I open a door but this morning the system was armed in night mode and I opened the door and the alarm didnt go off.  I did this with all doors and same thing.  I disarmed the system and opened the doors and it shows violated.  Any idea what happened?

When is 4G LTE going away?

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I was at a phone store yesterday considering a new phone.  I don't have need or use for a high end one.  Was looking at two models.  The cheaper was 4G LTE, the other was 5G.  The store person said something about the end of 4G LTE but didn't have any dates.  I usually keep phones for several years until the battery goes bad or I need more memory for ever expanding apps.  Do I need to consider life of 4G LTE phone or is it going to be long enough I don't need to think about that yet?

What is the best ELK m1 app for Android?

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I have been using agave but it stopped working. What is the best and cheapest app for Android to arm disarm and check zones?
Thanks

Can you manually adjust or see the status of an output in RP?

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How do I check my water shut off valve(Output) in ELK RP and how do I turn it off and on?

Thanks

7 Mbps download from Starlink...

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Not sure what is going on but my starlink app shows 7 Mbps and notes network congestion.  My PC shows 4.3 Mbps.   I was doing that well during peak times with DSL.  

New detached garage door / project

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Daughter just upgraded her home with attached garage to a home with two detached garages.  One 3 car garage and one 1 car garage sitting around 100 feet from the back of her property.  Main garage has one new GDO (yellow button) and one old Stanley GDO (dip switch buttons).  I was able to install a powerline AP in the garage which worked via a sub panel in the garage.  Garage is large with a work shop and natural gas heating (shop wise hung on the ceiling).  Totally impressed with the powerline AP working.

 

The driveways are all cement and guessing that old owner ran coaxial cable from the house to the garage so may use that later on.

 

Today's project was to convert a digital small button GDO to analog.  I have done this before.  Initially purchased a similiar button and noticed it was a clone after taking it apart.  It is listed on Amazon as:  Push Button Garage Door Opener Control fits LiftMaster 883LM Security 2.0.  There were no traces that I could find to solder wires to.  Returned it and purchased the LiftMaster 883LMW Wall-Mounted Wired Push Garage Door Opener and Doorbell Button with Light Button.

 

This time used 28 guage wires and Gorilla glue to keep the wires in place.  

 

Took pictures of the endeavor.  Used my large glass illuminated workbench magnifying glass and helping hands to hold the wires in place.  I pretinned the traces with a drop of solder and pretinned the ends of the 28 guage wire.  Worked fine.  

 

Note that this is a repost of the same type of modification for use with the OmniPro 2 panel or Elk panel (wired garage door).  

 

I use the modification today for OmniPro 2 connectivity and new Tasmota connectivity (wireless Tasmota with two wired sensors, temperature sensor and button).

 

Digital Analog GDO

 

M1KPAS beeping and quirky

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I'm hoping someone can point me at a solution to this before I order a replacement that I may not need.
 
I have an M1G  system that sprawls over a fairly large area.  The last area has an M1KPAS that is used for access control.  There are 6 keypads in the system daisychained to a final length of about 300ft.  Let's call the keypads A thru F with A being very close to the panel and F being the furthest away.  F is the problem keypad.  Keypad E - works fine and is about 200ft from the main panel.  The run from E to the problem keypad F is roughly 100ft.  I've checked termination and IDs and that all seems fine.  There is one device past the problem keypad and that is an M1XRFEG wireless receiver that is working fine so far as I can tell.
 
The keypad beeps continuously and doesn't respond properly to keypresses.  It will sometimes accept a keypress but more often than not it won't.  
 
The wiring to it is not ideal.  The last run is on Cat6 network cable and I've twisted together the colored pairs  (O/W with O, B/W with B etc) to turn this from 8 conductor to 4 conductor in an attempt to minimize voltage drop.  I'm fearful that this may be where my problem lies but this keypad has worked in the past with this configuration.
 
I added a secondary power supply (Elk P112)  to the daisy chained line about 150ft in to help with voltage drop.
 
When I run bus module enrolment it finds the keypad in question just fine.
 
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Thanks


Utilize existing hardlines with new smart system

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Hello everyone.

When I built our home back in 2014 I wired all doors and windows back to my OmniPro II.  Over the years I've been adding more and more devices (Lights, Outlets, etc..) to my Google home system.  All of my lighting automation and sprinkler system have been migrated off the OmniPro. The only thing left is the security system. Is there a security system on the market that I can utilize the existing security infrastructure and that will work with my Google home system?

 

Thank you,

Mike

Can I Send 12V DC Directly Into Omni Pro II Zones

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Can I Send 12V DC Directly Into Omni Pro II Zones, or must I use a relay interface? I have 4 exterior motion sensors that output 12v DC when activated. Can a zone on an Omni expansion board handle this or does it need a relay interface? Thank you

Gmail not allowing emails to be sent via M1 XEP as of May 30 2022?

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Gmail no longer allowing less secure apps. 

 

My M1 XEP stopped sending emails via my gmail account on June 6th. After troubleshooting I found this. Back up and running after switching to GMX.

 

Less secure apps & your Google Account

To help keep your account secure, from May 30, 2022, ​​Google no longer supports the use of third-party apps or devices which ask you to sign in to your Google Account using only your username and password.

Important: This deadline does not apply to Google Workspace or Google Cloud Identity customers. The enforcement date for these customers will be announced on the Workspace blog at a later date.

For more information, continue to read.

 

Elk m1xep fails to get m1cloud id – connection required

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HI all,
 
This question is regarding the elk m1 alarm panel with a m1xep ethernet expander.
 
I’m trying to use the “obtain account id” function of the m1xep so that I can use remote control of my m1 panel.  When I hit the button it throws an error “connection required”, “to obtain an m1cloud id for this account you must be connected to the system via a network connection”.  This occurs with a connection established.
 
This error seems to refer to a connection between the m1 and elkrp, so I disabled desktop firewall and antivirus, no change.  I have also reviewed my firewall settings on the edge router (usg) and can find no restrictions that would block elkrp or the m1 from routing outside my network.
 
I have installed that latest bootloader and firmware for the m1xep and the latest elkrp software.
 
The panel has been operating fine for about 10 years.  I can connect elkrp to the panel via network connection and configure anything I would like and view status.
 
ny help would be appreciated,
 
Steve

HAI Omnitouch 57e buttons not activating lights

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Hello
I have a HAI Omnitouch 57e. I had to change the battery, and after I did, the Omnitouch touchscreen is no longer activating the lights. I pressed the two top corners of the screen and got into the config area, and the test shows connection is successful. But when I go back to the Main Menu and push the button for living room pots, the lights dont turn on. Any suggestions on why there is a loss of communication? (I can turn on the lights with my PC with PIM-U)
Also, where can I get the HAI Automation Studio (1126) software?
Thank you in advance

1K EOL Resistor Replacement for OmniPro

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When we built our home, I hard-wired the security panel with 30-40 zones using 1K EOLR at the end of that zone.  I'm afraid my current Leviton OmniPro is on it's last leg.  Since Leviton has discontinued the OmniPro Panel, I was curious if anyone knew of a security panel that used 1K EOLRs?  I really don't want to cut into walls or rip trim off.  I've looked around, but haven't found anything.  From what I can tell, here is what the following manufacturers support:

 

Honeywell Vista: 2K EOLR

Elk: 2.2K EOLR

DCS Power Series: 5.2K EOLR

NAPCO: 2.2K EOLR

 

The only thing I have found that might support it is the Qolsys QS7133-840 IQ Hardwire 16-F.  "EOL supervision using 4.7K Ohm resistors (included) or 1k-10k Ohm depending on Resistor Mode"  From the article I read on AlarmGrid.com:  "Yes, the Qolsys IQ Hardwire 16-F supports end of line resistor learning if the module was built in week 40 of 2019 or later. Earlier versions of the module are required to use 4.7k Ohm resistors. IQ Hardwire 16-F modules that support EOLR learning can use resistor values from 1k to 10k Ohms."  Read more: https://www.alarmgrid.com/faq/can-the-qolsys-iq-hardwire-16-f-support-end-of-line-resistor-lea

 

Does anyone have any experience with this product?  Does anyone know of a panel that supports the 1K EOLRs?

Password manager?

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Wondering what people use for password manager.  Have been using password safe for years and it works ok.  Main issue is dealing with 2 PCs so have to merge the local files occaisionally and manually tell it which duplicate entries to keep for any updated ones.  Looking at Bitwarden which seems to have good reviews and has a free version that should do all I need and is open source and has been audited.  One of the issues is getting my wife to use it - she wants something super easy.


Database error

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Is anyone else seeing this??

There is new content available as highlighted.

 

 

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But when I click "View New Content", I get the error attached.

 

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Wired Panel Choices 2022

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Looking for opinions on panel options for DIY in 2022.

 

I've been putting off replacing my defunct Interlogix UltraSync while hoping that some company would update their products OR a new company would appear with a modern solution. Notice that was what I was apparently looking for the first time, ~4 years ago, when I took the bait on the UltraSync. It was in fact more modern but not enough IMHO and then the company/division was put out of its misery.

 

I don't have a fully operational setup yet - only using for Smoke/CO via a pair of COSMOD2W. Unfortunately all my door/window sensors have 3.3k EOL resistors. They are not operational because all the wires are rolled up in my attic and haven't been run down to my basement where the panel is.

 

I am well aware that most here have pointed to the Elk M1 in the past. From what info I have seen it is more modern than most the other options but again not as good as one would like. And the price for value is ridiculous. I really have zero use for the automation capabilities as I have a Loxone setup.

 

DSC has killed automation integration with their recent Neo series. The older 18xx are primitive although I am aware of the EnvisaLink.

 

Honeywell Vista with EnvisaLink is another in that aging category.

 

Am aware that Omni is no more.

 

The Bosch B series looks promising and it appears one can now buy them through JMAC. I've found documentation online and supposedly a CD is included with all the documentation. I downloaded their programming software (a whopping 1.28GB!) and it appears to run (and actually seems to be of high quality). In the past Bosch was pretty locked up as a dealer-only option but maybe things are different now.

 

I came across a startup, https://www.verkada.com, that looks like an interesting product but not available without a quote and I suspect requires a pro install. Have seen some comments they are a marketing nightmare.

 

I fully expect any replies to be of the "nothing new" variety. Thanks for reading and all comments appreciated...

 

View New Content - not working

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For years I have been using the View New Content button on the upper right side of the page to see any threads that have been updated since I last logged on.  That has not been working for the last few weeks.   I get an error that says "There appears to be an error with the database."  I am using the latest Brave browser and have been for years.

 
 

Speakers Over Coax?

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For many years, I have been using speaker switchers for my audio system, AB8SS to be exact.  I would like to add a pair of speakers at my shed in my back yard.   I ran cables out there in conduit a few decades ago and I don't believe I can run more.    Specifically, I have 2 un-used runs of RG-6/U that were intended for security cameras, but are no longer used.   Can I use those two RG-6 cables to run left and right speakers?   The distance is around 200 feet from the amplified source in the basement.  How, and what issues could I expect?

x10 wireless remote switch stopped working

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I have an exterior lighting circuit that is split off my garage circuit and (was being) controlled by X10 Wireless switch modules, but has stopped working recently.

 

There is a XPFM Inline Receiver module that is wired into the circuit which (as I understand it) gets a voltage change signal through the wires from a Mini-Transceiver (model TM751).  This transceiver in turn gets its signal from a model SS13A "3 Unit + Dim RF Style Switch".  This arrangement has been working for several years, but for the last several months it has been only working intermittently.  Sometimes I have trouble turning the circuit on, sometimes trouble turning it off, but it has always started working again within a few hours.  Suddenly, it has stopped working completely, with the circuit on.  I've tried turning off power to the garage, testing with an alternate SS13A wall switch, and testing with an alternate Transceiver Module (I bought a few spares and never got them installed elsewhere). This leaves me thinking that the XPFM Receiver has failed, but I don't have a spare.  

 

Any ideas on how to test this? 

 

I know these devices are several years old now. If I need to replace something, should I start from scratch with a new solution? What do you recommend? 

Android phone with IP webcam app shuts down after 5 hours

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Was going to use an old phone for a temporary camera on my zoneminder system.  Used IP webcam app.  Got it all working but it stopped after about 5 hours.  I was hooked to a charger so shouldn't be battery.  Any ideas on what I might be able to do for settings to keep it going?

In my opinion you are not right. Let's discuss it. Write to me in PM, we will communicate.


ELK M1 successor

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What would be a good successor to my Elk M1 Gold? I've lost faith in ELK coming up with a good successor (announced ELK E27 alarm engine keeps getting postponed and doesn't aim to be a drop-in replacement). I have 319.5MHz wireless GE sensors and a lot of hardwired sensors. I also control lights via UPB from the M1 Gold. Does the Inception panel support UPB? If not, what other panels on the market support hardwired and UPB? The panel needs good integration to Homeseer 4 as well.





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