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  • 06/22/17--07:58: HAI OMNI Pro II - Thermostat
  • Hello, new to the group!  wondering what wireless thermostats you Omni Pro users are using?  Looking for something that is Zwave and gives full functionality with PC access and the Snaplink App. I had tried the 2gig CT-30 but couldn't get it to connect to the Zwave remote. 


    I know that if you use the Leviton Zigbee Thermostat you have full functionality but at this point i don't have a zigbee module



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    Just an email that arrived in my inbox this morning.


    Powerline Control Systems, Inc. (PCS) is reaching out to you to understand if you think there is a need for wall switches and keypads that can control standard 0-10V LED fixtures and LED drivers. 

    The patented aspect of PCS's new 0-10V controls (wall switch and keypad) is that there is NO need to run the two 0-10V control wires from the switch or keypad to the LED drivers. There is a small inexpensive receiver module, "dongle" that is installed in the fixture right next to the LED driver. All you need to do is connect the dongle purple and gray wires to the LED driver purple and gray wires and the dongle black and white wires to the incoming LINE and NEUTRAL. NO LOW VOLTAGE WIRES. NO WIRELESS MODULES.

    The receiver module requires NO PROGRAMMING or setup of any kind. Install it and it works.

    The Stand-alone (non-UPB) versions of keypad and wall switch also require no programming.

    The PulseWorx versions of keypad and wall switch have been added to the latest version of UpStart and program just like all other UPB devices. They receive and transmit all UPB commands.



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  • 06/23/17--12:12: No menu on Elk keypad
  • First time, new install of Elk M1G. Doing the initial power up – all zones terminated, M1KP keypad connected.
    When the master power switch is turned on, I get a solid green ready light and keypad displays “ready to arm” When I press the Elk key, all I get is a tone – no menu, no prompt for a code, etc. The display continues to show “ready to arm”. How do I access the keypad menus? Thanks.

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    I am interested in home automation and the first device I'm wanting to use is a smart thermostat, probably a Nest or Ecobee.  The problem is my current thermostat (Honeywell Visionpro IAQ) has proprietary wiring making it incompatible with smart thermostats.  Is there a way to rewire my current system so that I could use a smart thermostat?  If so, is this something an experienced DIYer can/should do or should this be done by a HVAC tech?  Below is a diagram of my current wiring.  The pink line represents a white wire.


    HVAC wiring


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    Hey all I have a real problem. I'm trying to provide audio in my guest house. I installed an mcac5 the third one in the guest house and connected it to my existing infrastructure. Since then it's. been miserable. Really the system isn't meant to have the controllers far apart from one another and the power goes out beyond the battery backup and shuts down in the guest house. The entire system required a reboot which isn't convenient. Anyhow now I can't get audio beyond first controller. The second and third controllers have no sound and I'm starting to suspect the interconnect was hit by SWFL lightning. I don't have. Surge on the cat 5 between the two systems which are muxed to provide the audio in between controllers.

    I love my Sonos and in my new detached garage I just installed a standalone sonos on an amplifier. Sonos is great the only problem is the lack of keypads. I can't find anything good. I do have iPads around the house in the wall but they really are purposed for haiku my home automation system.

    Any suggestions. My thought is to install a Sonos in the guest house but a couple in the main house and be done with it. I just need some inwall keypad.

    Any suggestions?

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  • 06/24/17--14:23: Install Uplink 4500EZ
  • Currently have a Napco Gemini 3200 panel, monitored by NextAlarm via IP Comcast Cable, and want to add cellular back up.


    Per NextAlarm, I purchased the Uplink4500EZ, and the external antenna just in case it's needed. Now waiting for delivery.  


    NextAlarm will provide no information about the install other than "follow the instructions in the box". The Uplink sheet says a separate power supply is required, others say serial cables, etc. are needed?


    I would like to get this up and running as quickly as possible, and any help you are able to give me would be greatly appreciated!




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  • 06/24/17--19:42: Hydrawise
  • I don't know if this is new or new to me.   Our landscaper just installed this cool new irrigation controller that is wifi enabled and I can access via their app.   It's pretty cool.    Lot's of controller options.   Can delay watering if forecast is for rain.   Very nice.




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    Is it possible to use a non HAI Zigbee thermostat with the OmniPro 2 ZIM?


    Current HAI ZIM has only been tested with Zigbee appliance and light switches.  Works fine.  (base light switch transport is using UPB which works fine for me).


    Historically with the OmniPro 2 have utilized only HAI serial thermostats and only two...RCXX and Omnistat2...


    The thermostat has resided in the typically unused living room, dining room and main hallway.


    I look sometimes but really never make changes to it locally or remotely.  Today many of the in house touch screens focus on status versus input or making changes.  Well that and I am really bad creating touchscreens with too many buttons (low on the WAF).  IE: the old Omnitouch screens just are off unless I touch them where as the Homeseer touchscreens are off or running whatever screen saver. 

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    I have a vacation rental with an interior security camera. I'll use a remote controllable power plug to power it off when it is being rented and back on when it is vacant, but I still feel that guests will not be comfortable with it being in view.
    I do have a SmartThings Z-Wave Hub. The security camera is standing upright and on a level surface above my kitchen cabinets(it's a Piper nv security camera measuring 4" W x 6" H with the camera lens just below 5" H) and there is leveled space in front of it for a device to cover/shield it. Is there a device that exists could be used to shield the view of the Security Camera that can go up and then retract back down? I feel like the device I'm looking for, if it even exists, is going to take some creative thinking to come up with an idea. I wouldn't care if it was a device or multiple devices that look completely out of place. For example if I placed a few meant to be in-ground garden sprinklers that are actually are able to go up then stop, and then retract remotely I'm pretty sure my guests would prefer the garden sprinklers over the security camera.

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    Brand new in box, price is $50 OBO. Please PM me with any questions. Location: MN Thanks! 5SopEKn.jpgOkOyodJ.jpg

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  • 06/27/17--16:45: ELK M1 Gold Problem
  • I've had an M1 Gold for several years.  A few days ago I got a low battery warning on the panel.  I was going out of town and not able to change the battery.  When I got back the keypads were all dead and the main unit just had a power light on, no flashing leds at all.


    I changed the battery and was still not able to get the keypads to work.


    When I switch the unit on, I don't hear the normal relay clicks, just a power on led on the panel and that is it.


    Any ideas?

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  • 06/27/17--21:45: Which system to get
  • I will be installing a security system in our new house and I am torn about which system to get, the elk M1 or the omnipro?

    I will be automating the house in the future, but right now I don't have the time and I just want to get the security and fire portion in.

    I think it will need about 5 door contacts, 3 motion detectors and a few wired screens. I will also be doing the smokes. I will be having a company monitor the system and I will also be installing an Acti IP camera system.

    I am pretty good with this type of stuff as I have set up access control systems, IP camera systems, commercial HVAC controls, etc so it doesn't have to be "user" friendly. Also cost is not so much of an issue.

    Any thoughts are appreciated and I am open to other systems as well. At the end, it probably doesn't matter too much, because they both are good and I am guessing most comments are going to attest to that, but any feedback is welcomed.

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    We were on holiday and a corroded siren tamper switch caused a false alarm.  I bypassed it and reset the alarm.  Weeks later (today) when I went to replace the switch, I noticed it was not bypassed anymore.


    1. What causes the system to remove the bypass?


    The manual says it the bypass will be removed when the system is next disarmed (but the manual is assuming the keypad is used).  However, from the attached log, you can see that did not happen.


    Row          Explanation

    55 & 56 - re-armed after the bypass was initially applied after the false alarm using M1ToGo remotely

    52 & 53 - bypass still active after re-arming by the neighbour using the keypad (she wouldn't know how to bypass)

    49 & 50 - bypass still active after re-arming by us using the keypad (and we didn't re-apply a bypass)

    44 & 45 - bypass still active after re-arming by us using the keypad (and we didn't re-apply a bypass)

    42 & 43 - bypass removed after disarming using Ek M1 on my iPhone


    It seems if the bypass was added by a remote app, then it will remain until the system is disarmed by a remote app?? (or deliberately removed obviously)

    Attached Thumbnails

    • Zone unbypassed 1.JPG

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