It's been discussed in other threads but it still bugs me that after all these years since X-10 was invented we still don't have a modern lighting protocol that could be said to be "ideal" for the DIY/retrofit market. As I go through the list of available options it seems like every single one of them has at least one fatal flaw that that makes it at best, a compromise solution. I have not tried every option available so feel free to correct me if I am misunderstanding something here but it seems like most of these problems could have been avoided:

X-10 - Slow and unreliable. Subject to false operation or blocked operation from noise on the power line. Whole house amplifiers can overcome weak signal issues but can't solve the problem of lights unintentionally triggering on from noise. Problems increase as you scale up a large installation.

Insteon - Huge address space designed into the protocol is completely wasted by the limitations of the PLM required to use it. The PLM has a link table that is too small, a processor that is too slow to read the table at a pace that keeps up with activity within the installation and the device has quality issues such as failing capacitors and a tendency to send false "all on" signals. Also the cleanup command designed into the protocol is uselessly slow and usually has to be aborted to process new activity on the line that occurs before the cleanup verification can be completed.

UPB - This would seem like the ideal protocol for retrofit with super strong power line signals that can travel for miles and cut through most interference and attenuation situations. Unfortunately the ideal retrofit protocol is packaged into devices that are about as far from retrofit as you can get. Instead of compact switches designed to fit into old work boxes overstuffed with brittle fabric cover wires from the 30s and 40s you get unnecessarily large industrial devices that look like they were designed to go into extra deep boxes in some commercial setting. I remember buying some PCS X-10 gear back in the day and struggling to find any location with enough box volume to actually install the things. UPB devices need to lose a full inch of depth to get anywhere close to being practical for retrofit in older houses.

Z-Wave - Suffers primarily from it's dependency on routing rather than "broadcast and repeat" to get a signal from controller to device. Supposed to be self-healing if a device in the chain fails or gets moved but stories I hear suggest that doesn't work all that smoothly. Also there are horror stories about how the routing can get hopelessly scrambled as you try to scale out beyond a certain size. Also the RF only signal does not do well in older houses with metal boxes and lathe and plaster walls. Also the early versions required you to take your controller within inches of an installed device to enroll it (can think of a lot of device locations where that would truly suck). Also early versions did no report status changes from local operation. Also, interoperability between brands is limited so key features might not work for you. Also the whole primary and secondary controller thing can get way too complicated and is another point of potential incompatibility between brands,

Zigbee - Most of the problems of Z-Wave but more proprietary and not really designed for DIY.

Caseta - Can only control scenes and automation from Pico remotes, not from the load switches themselves... WTF? How is this useful in any normal automation scenario?

RadioRA2 - Deliberately made difficult to access by DIY users. Lower RF frequency is better suited to the challenges of retrofit than 900M or 2.4K but still trying to push RF through metal boxes and lathe and plaster walls.

Wi-Fi - RF challenges in retrofit old work metal boxes. Mostly designed for app based remote control... nobody is really pursuing true DIY designs meant to work with an on-premise automation controller.

What am I missing that would point me to the perfect DIY/retrofit lighting protocol for the 21st century?

My z-wave network is being controlled by VRC0P's.

Can I add a samsuing smart thing onto the network to be able to control it via that?

Thank you

I am creating this thread to discuss the eventual solution to the hopes of replacing the Nuvo MPS4 with a Sonos controller that will communicate fully with a Nuvo whole house audio system with full keypad functionality and display capabilities. This is my goal.

I began playing around yesterday and so far this is what I am able to accomplish.

1. I connected the serial port from my Essentia to a serial port on a PC server that I have running.

2. I then installed a free program from CommFront called Serial-TCP. It is a simple program that allows you to connect a serial port to an IP port using wither IP or UDP. 

3. I found the Nuvo command protocol document here: http://smarthomebus.com/dealers/Protocols/NUVO%20Protocol.pdf

4. I also am a user of iRule. Someone had created a Nuvo device with the majority of the commands. It wold have been easy enough to create my own but it saved me time.

5. I created a test page on iRule to test some of the simple Nuvo commands. I pointed the gateway to the server running the Serial-TCP software and it worked perfectly.

In a matter of 2 hours I was able to control my Nuvo from any iPad in my house.

Now, this is not a rock-solid solution but that will come later. The way that I build things is that I do proof of concepts first and then solidify the environment.

I also have an OMNI II and will be integrating this as well. Currently it runs through the passthrough of the MPS4. 

The next items that I will be looking at are:

https://github.com/jishi/node-sonos-http-api

http://www.purple.org/sonos/

https://github.com/antxxxx/sonos-swagger-api

I also have HomeSeer and will be looking at the Sonos plugin on that system.

I hope others will chime in and we can enjoy this journey together!!

Joe

I am looking in the rules in the "Whenever" section and cant find a selection for when the alarm is activated.

Any ideas?

Thanks

All:

A coule of years ago I bought what was advertised as a 5-pack of HAI 47A00-2 motion sensors.  I'm just now getting around to putting them into service, but I'm wondering if that's what I really have.  They look almost exactly like the 47A00-2, but there's a button on the side (right side when viewed from rear, with cover off; close to the sens jumper).  They came with no documentation.  They do not appear to be labeled with a part # in any normally-accessible location.

I haven't been able to enroll them to the 45A00-1.  To do so with a 47A00-2, you're supposed to hold a magnet at a particular location (left side, I think, though I may have that wrong) for 2 seconds.  That does nothing on these units.  However, they seem to be acting more like described in the 47A00-1 docs, even though there's no physical resemblance.  On those, you can enter enrollment mode (also called RF test mode) by either holding the button down for 2 seconds, or holding a magnet next to the button (right side, or left when viewed from the front with the cover on).  Both seem to work, in that they cause the LED to blink regularly for a while, but neither causes the sensor to enroll.

I just popped it open, and the circuit board is labelled

HW:5044-02

SW:SWS5004-02-001

Can anyone help me determine if these should work, and if so, how to enroll them?  Thanks.

-Tom

I have a Jenn Aire Natural gas grill here that has worked OK now for around 14 years.

Recently noticed that I smell a gas leak when I am not using it such that I now shut off the gas at the local NG gas connector.

Over the years have replaced the cast iron burners, drip plates on it and nothing else as it has done well. 

I do smell the leak and it seemed to be coming from the part where the hose connects to the regulator inside of the grill.  I removed it and used pipe dope and tightened up but still smell the gas such that now when I use the grill I turn on and off the gas valve at the local connector.

Any suggestions about what else I can DIY look at to fix on this grill (other than replacing it)?

Googling do fine an issue relating to the NG regulator (no regulator).  Here there is a regulator from initial purchase.

I got this controller mainly because of the DX8 wall mount control panel is so nice looking.  I've got it all hooked up and working great but would like to attempt to figure out the protocol so I can control with my ISY.  The app works great on the ipad and I attempted to do a packet capture on my pfsense router but dont see any thing going to or from the IP of the wifi-104 or the IPAD.  Thinking maybe it couldnt see it because the traffic is routed through my WAP, I did a tcpdump by SSH'ing into my ubiquiti WAP but only see ARP requests and replies to the router.  I'm probably doing something wrong.  I don't know much about packet sniffing.  I've used wireshark a couple times for some very basic stuff like seeing what command the webserver of my autelis pool controller was sending, but that was local traffic so it was more straightforward.

I've tried all the apps I could find; magic home, magic ufo, mi-light (all versions) and even a PC based program, LimitlessLEDv6.  Only magic home and LimitlessLEDv6 were able to see my controller when I scanned.  But neither could do anything control wise.  The others failed to detect anything.

Any pointers to get me started?

This controller can and does turn on white and RGB at the same time by the way! 

Seeing this today with my MS Outlook web based email using Firefox.

An error occurred during a connection to mail.live.com. Invalid OCSP signing certificate in OCSP response. Error code: SEC_ERROR_OCSP_INVALID_SIGNING_CERT

    The page you are trying to view cannot be shown because the authenticity of the received data could not be verified.
    Please contact the website owners to inform them of this problem.

Googling found this:

Seen in US, UK and other countries:

For the record, nothing to do with anyones browsers. Microsoft's OCSP certificate has expired meaning it won't work with secure connection protocols until it renews, and it isn't scheduled to renew until tomorrow. Firefox will see the expired certificate and cut the connection immediately. Chrome will access it, but it won't recognize the connection as secure until the certificate renews. Unsure about other browsers. Cockup on Microsoft's end.

I resolved the issue by changing in Firefox the address of outlook Web page site and my Hotmail email is now working fine.

I ran into this problem since last night (05-28-17); have tried a lot of "solutions": only one solution works but it may cause security problems to your PC down the road if you don't switch back from "false" to "true". Here's how: 1. You open Mozilla Firefox, type in the top window "about:config", then click "Yes"; you roll down to "security.ssl.enable_ocsp_stapling"; double-click it to change from "true" to "false" and voila! BUT after a while or if the issue has been resolved by whoever caused this, you must go back to the above steps and reverse the setting back to "true", otherwise it may cause security issues to your computer later on. I still want to know what and who caused this so we can put the blame on (Is it Firefox?? or MS Outlook??). Good luck, fellow surfers!

Have not been able to log into Hotmail/Outlook since yesterday. Same error message in Firefox as everyone has received. Went to Explorer, reset password and finally got into Hotmail/Outlook. I have been having issues ever since Microsoft introduced Edge and I have been having to deal with security issues proving who I am. Many security alerts using Firefox and Hotmail/Outlook claiming different browsers across the USA being used when I access Hotmail/Outlook from my home computer! Has Microsoft declared war with Mozilla
Firefox?

On and on comments relating to said issue (well one site its over 3000)

Hi folks,

I would like to extend my M1's wireless sensor coverage by 'daisy chaning' an M1 XREFEG to an KP2 keypad.

This is because some foundation settling has somehow damaged my hard wired connections to the far end of the house and I want to put in wireless sensors. Some reach the current XREFEG fine but other locations don't have the punch. ( shear walls, lots of metal )

My current XRFEG is connected to a KP1 keypad acting as keypad 1. works fine. this keypad is not on the 'data based hub.'

when I tried moving the XRFEG to a KP2 using the same technique - well basically  nothing worked.

The KP2 _is_ on a 'data based hub' ( dislike that name ) and I'm remembering that the ´ addressing on the hub is somehow different, and there are the 'flow back' extra wires connected.

am I SOL? and will need to run wire out there directly?

Hackers break into centralized password manager OneLogin

June 2, 2017

Hackers have gained access to OneLogin, an online password manager that offers a single sign-on to multiple websites and services.

OneLogin said in a blog post that it couldn't rule out the possibility that hackers got keys to reading encrypted data, such as stored passwords.

Published reports, however, say OneLogin informed customers that the hackers indeed got that capability. OneLogin didn't immediately respond to a request for comment.

Password managers help people keep track of passwords for a growing array of websites and services that require one. Instead of having to remember complex passwords for each one, people can just remember a master password. The password service then unlocks other accounts as needed.

Some security experts say that despite the risks of breaches with password managers, using one to keep track of multiple complex passwords is far better than repeatedly using the same ones at multiple sites.

In 2015, rival LastPass said hackers obtained some user information—although not actual passwords. It advised all users to change their LastPass master password.

While LastPass offers its services to both individuals and businesses, OneLogin focuses on corporate customers and lets employees of those companies access a range of services from Google, Microsoft, Amazon and others. OneLogin's customers include Pinterest and Conde Nast.
 

One and only comment to article:

Of course, one simply has to be smart enough to realize there is no sense in using such services in the first place.

Just keep your shit together and deal with the hassle of individually entered passwords at every single time of use, and your security level goes way way up and stays there.

I don't use auto logins for a single thing. And neither should you.

pass words are a pain. Deal with it. Suck it up.

Or get stuck being invaded -- like this article says is your eventual outcome.

It's Russian roulette. The trick is to never sit down and play.
 

Decided to try one of these this past week.

Initially here started to retrofit the old cans with the new LED lamps which also work fine.

(only non dimmable at this time)

The search started with looking for a low profile can which doesn't exist as all of them are about 5" tall.

Originally on a google search found them at a Home Depot in Canada

These came with a small metal 120VAC mini box.

Purchased a none dimmable 5" circular lamp. 

It is configured with a tiny 12VDC transformer.  Most difficult part was connecting the spring clips.

I took apart the can I was going to use to utilize the little metal box that came with it.  I put the 12VDC-120VAC transformer in the can. 

Prices are all over the place on these and they also make remote controlled RGB style lamps.

I am impressed so far with my first test installation.  Color is perfect (well for me).

Here is one web site selling these type of lamps.

Ultrathin low profile recessed lamps.

I used their installation manual to install these.

Ok, for all my Omni Pro II programming I have been using a serial connector (don't laugh and yes it's been a long time since I made changes).

I tried to connect today through my local network for obvious reasons.   While trying to connect I seemed to be reading controller information because I typed my encryption key in wrong and the program told me.  So I felt that I had made contact with the controller on the network.  I finally got the whole mess straight (IP address, codes, port, etc) and I get the message "Comm Disconnected (201)" while trying to connect.  Anyone know what the problem is from this message?  Thanks for the help.

PS: I am starting from scratch with a new pca file.  Something in the back of my mind keeps reminding me that  the master code has to match the file code even if new but at my age  I may have dreamed that. lol   

TD

So I've had a "Low Battery" warning forever, right? But I've also had a ton of gear on the M1 and I figured I was getting was I asked for. The Load Spreadsheet is quite useful for this. I let it bumble along for a while; walk throughs are fine after all.

After recently re balancing my load ( via the venerable P412 ) I was still getting the "Low Battery" warning. Harrumph! I checked the voltage on the M1's battery and it was low; about 6v and not climbing overnight after load shedding. I get a new battery at Jameco. ( just down the hill, will call is handy ) 

Still "Low Battery." Grrr.

I dug up the writings of the mysterious Sparky, and after cataloging the various points here's what I get.

M1 power bus: 13.89

VAC in: 18.6

New battery: 12.7 ( anything less than 11.5 triggers low battery according to old threads )

P412: 13.8 all outputs

There's juice everywhere!

however when I unplug the M1's battery and check the output at the leads I get a big fat ZERO. Checking at the connection block also ZERO. This would mean there is no V output from the M1 to the battery

this isn't right, right? I'll be the first to admit that I would miss something. What would that be?

Is there a user reset-able fuse anywhere on the back of the M1 ( I am pretty sure the answer is no ) Or perhaps a poly fuse?

I'm in the process of installing an Elk M1 in two adjacent office units. This is not new construction, and its not practical to pull new cables. There are 2 Cat5e pulled from each unit to a common area. I'm using one set of Cat5e to link the ethernet network, and am thinking of using the other for Elk's databus so I can use a single controller for both office units. 

The idea is to install a single Elk controller in Office A, and connect various expanders in Office B to the controller over the linked databus. In Unit B, I'll need an M1XIN for the existing hardwired zones and an M1DBHR for the existing keypads. I'd like to be able to announce in Office B when a door opens (versus just a chime). Looking at the siren, voice, and recordable drivers it appears I need an Elk-124, an output expander, the Elk-129 and I'd be limited to 8 announcements. Is there another way to make this work? Would it be possible to feed the indoor speaker/siren Output 1 of the Elk Controller over the spare conductors in the Cat5e to a speaker in Office B instead?

Are speakers such as the Elk-70 Echo designed to function for both voice and siren?

Also, if I partition to zones and keypads in each unit, can I prevent a keypad in Office A from chiming when a zone in Office B opens, and vice versa, while still chiming in its own Office space?

By Dan Meyers
Published June 06, 2017


Take a look at the ingredients list of food products including Slim Jims, hot dogs and other inexpensive meat-based foods that don’t actually look like meat and you’re bound to encounter mechanically separated chicken or turkey, usually as one of the primary ingredients.

The name of this one ingredient sounds pretty ominous. What exactly is being separated, and why are machines needed?

So what exactly is it? Is it actually chicken? And how is it made?

According to the USDA, “Mechanically separated poultry (MSP) is a paste-like and batter-like poultry product produced by forcing bones, with attached edible tissue, through a sieve or similar device under high pressure to separate bone from the edible tissue,” which is then treated with a small amount of ammonium hydroxide as an anti-microbial agent.

The definition of “edible tissue” is stretching it a bit here as it essentially refers to anything left on the bones, including nerves, blood vessels, cartilage, and skin, as well as a small amount of meat.

The resulting product is the poultry equivalent of “lean finely textured beef,” also known as “pink slime,” even though the production method is different. Consumption of mechanically separated beef was banned in 2004 due to fear of mad cow disease.

Mechanically separated meat (which also includes pork), is found in plenty of foods, including chicken nuggets and frozen pre-formed chicken patties, but while there’s a limit on mechanically separated pork in hot dogs (20 percent), there’s no legal limit on mechanically separated chicken in hot dogs, so you may want to check the ingredients list before your next cookout.

This would happen to me once every season at season startup and maybe a couple of times through the sprinkler season but now it won't keep a connection past one day.  When the connection drops any commands send by the Omni are not received by the Rain8net.

I continually have to unplug power to the Rain8net and plug it back in to reestablish connection to my Omni Pro II. Originally I was using serial 1 and Warren at Rain8net told me to try a different port - which has made no difference. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

thx

Is it possible to get the UMC-USB to work on a USB 3.0 outlet on my PC.  My PC tells me the CIM computer interface device is an older model and needs a 2.0 usb.  Don't have one of those, I think?

Not complaining so much as just curious. Looking at an Elk KP2 it is close enough to the size of a standard 2-gang plate that I wonder why it wasn't just designed to that size? That would allow flush mounting without a proprietary back box and makes it a lot easier to repurpose boxes if you ever need to move things around.

Using a proprietary footprint can't be a matter of lock-in since you can't substitute a different brand keypad to work with an Elk panel so what possible reason could there be to come so close and not just make the thing a standard 2-gang size?