I am having problems getting some python code to properly calculate the checksums for the Elk serial protocol.   

I have looked at the serial protocol document and the example C source code in the Appendix.   I have also downloaded the ELK SDK so that I can verify what the SDK is calculating for a checksum vs my code.

The way I understand it the checksum is the sum of all of the decimal representation of the ASCII characters in the message taken mod256.   That number is then taken as a twos complement.  

Code below.    Using a test string of 00300005000 the SDK outputs a checksum of 74 while the below outputs 19.    Since the SDK doesn't include source I can see what their tool is doing.   Does anyone here have some experience with this?   Any pointers would be very appreciated.

Thanks  

Thanks to all you cocooners, my OPII project has come along quite nicely. I have a solid security system (with no more false alarms!) and the basis for a good automation system as well. I'm starting to make some improvements to the system with regards to sirens/sounders,but I'm running into some problems.

I bought a Cooper Wheelock MIN-T siren/strobe unit for the exterior. I have three uses for this:

1. A typical exterior siren

2. A strobe to help the fire dept find my house if we ever have a fire

3. A siren that I can "chirp" when my exterior beam sensor is broken

The MIN-T is nice in that it has two triggers each with two inputs for the siren and two inputs for the strobe. All inputs require a 12-24VDC constant voltage so I don't have to worry about providing any sort of temporal input.

So far, I have only accomplished #1 on my list and I'm struggling to get #2 and #3 working. For #2, I need a driver since the current draw on the strobe is about 250mA. I can't drive this with one of the outputs on the OPII since those are limited to 100mA. It seems like I need some sort of "driver" that I can enable with an OPII output that will provide 12VDC and be able to provide the necessary current. I looked at the ELK-100, but this seems to be generating the sound to be presented to a speaker. I just need a voltage/current source. Anyone know of a device that will achieve this?

For #3, I want to chirp the siren to scare off any potential intruders and any small animals that may interrupt the beam. The animals are why I can't set the beam sensors as a perimeter zone because the false alarms occur about every three days. I figured a two to three second chirp would get someone's attention and make them think twice about dropping into my window well. I have one of the OPII outputs connected to one of the siren inputs on the MIN-T. The siren draws only 85mA, so driving this directly with an output should work. I have the OPII programmed so that when the beam sensor becomes not ready, it will active the output for 3 seconds. I tried setting the output to a general output  and to a sounder output, but neither of these work. I haven't had a chance yet to measure the voltage on the outputs when the beam sensor is triggered. Once I get someone to help me, I can do that. Does it make sense to do it the way I have it set up?

Any input is much appreciated!

http://board.homeseer.com/showthread.php?t=160059

Now that the drywall is up I'm going to have to start terminating all the low voltage wiring.

I've got multiple Leviton boxes for all of it, hopefully plenty of room (and enough slack on the ends of the cabling).

I've got double coax pulled to 28 locations, along with a few singles here and there.  Totaling about 64 cables.  I certainly don't need to make all of them active, at least not all right now.  Most rooms have more than one "TV location" and the coax was easier to install during framing than pulling it later.

I'm wondering what's best for handling distribution of FIOS cable TV over the home-run pulled RG6 coax wires? 

Items like these: 

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47693-16P-Premium-Amplified-Module/dp/B002VJKAWG

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47690-6C2-Passive-Video-Splitter/dp/B002VJKAVM

Hello all,

First time post and I have questions about cost and what I'm looking to get for my structured wiring solution.

This is a new home build, but we have to use their low voltage vendor.  The home is a two-story home built on a slab with attic access and is 3200sf.  They are offering Cat5e but I really want Cat6 (for future use of that technology)

Total amount of RG6 runs: 11

Total amount of Cat6 runs: 10

4 speaker pre-wire

5.1 surround sound pre-wire

Total Cost: $2900.00

Is this a good price? Any suggestions?  

Here is what the overall structured wiring consists of that I'm looking to do:

First Floor

Family Room: 2RG6, 2Cat6, 1HDMI, 1 chase pipe (TV will be mounted on the wall), 2 pre-wire for in-ceiling speakers

Kitchen: 1Cat6, 1Phone

Study: 1 Cat6

Bedroom: 1RG6

Patio: 1RG6, 1Cat6, 2 Pre-wire for speakers

Second Floor

Owners Suite: 2RG6, 2Cat6, 1Phone

Loft (Theater): 2RG6, 2Cat6, 5.1 surround sound pre-wire (3 front, 2 rear, 1 sub)

Bedroom: 1RG6, 1Cat6

Bedroom: 1RG6

Bedroom: 1RG6

Thanks!

R

Hi,

I am having a problem accessing my M1, I cant see it on my network, if I do an xep search none found comes back. I tried to reset the board but I still can't search and find it. Think the board is fried? Has anybody had this happen to them and was able to regain communication? If so how did you go about it? I just wanted to ask everybody before I order a new one.

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Mike

I realize that this is most likely a very simple question, but for the life of me I cannot find any documentation as to how to properly power up and down an OPII with multiple expansion enclosures.  My current set-up which I am nearing completion on has the following:

*  OPII Main Board with two backup batteries

*  HAI PowerHub with two backup batteries

*  Altronix Power Distribution Enclosure with two backup batteries

*  3 Expansion Enclosures (two remotely located in other buildings) with two backup batteries each

What would be the appropriate process and sequence to power this setup up and down the for alterations and maintenance?

Thank you for your help!

Hi!

I'm a long time lurker here, and I have a question.  But I don't really know how to ask it, since I'm really bad with general electricity.  So well I have at home a couple of UPB Switchs, I've installed them without any "Problem", Now I'll order a Insteon Starter kit, since there's a lot more product with insteon/X10. But that's not the reason I'm writing here.

Ok so A member of my family bought a house in Central America (Costa Rica), it's a new construction so the wiring shouldn't be retarded haha, and I'd like to install him a couple of Insteon Switches, but here's my problem, all the lights in the house Use this kind of switch, here's a picture I took last month. So is it even possible to light on 3 different circuit with only 1 Insteon Switch?

Thanks guys!

I've got an HAI IIe coming next week that, at least in the beginning, I'll be using with Elve to monitor the open/close status of my doors and windows.  Do I need PC Access to do the basic setup or can I do it from the keypad?

I'm assuming that if I start to do more advanced control and programing with the controller, I'll want to have PC Access to do it. What does the dealer version offer over the end user version?

Thanks, Bill

I was hoping to solict some ideas on a "repeating" task.  I have two rules.

Rule 1. When garage is open send "Garage Open" email to a@b.com

Rule 2. When garage is closed send  "Garge Closed" email to a@b.com

I would like to add the following:

Every X mins reassert Rule 1 until Rule 2 fires.  I assume I want to add starting a timer to rule 1 or create a new rule based on a timer and the conditions of rule 1?

Anyway, I was hoping to get some ideas on the best way to repeat these messages?

Thanks,

Ross

I'm in the process of installing a few SA UPB switches this weekend. The first two went smoothly; one US2-40 to control the living room cans and a US11-40 for the porch lights. This my first foray into UPB so I was feeling pretty positive after getting them installed and setup with UpStart. Then my 3-way install knocked me down a peg. I have an existing 3-way circuit; a switch at the bottom and top of the stairwell. The top box has the load wires. I am replacing both switches with US2-40s. What I decided to do, and please tell me if this doesn't make sense, is to wire the two switches in parallel (neutral-to-neutral, line-to-line). The switch in the box with the load wires is the one that will actually switch the load, so the brown wire on that US2-40 is connected to line wire going to the light. I also connected the existing red wire (3rd connector for the traditional 3-way) between the two switches using the wht/red wire on each. I got it all hooked up and the top switch works as I expected - the bottom did not. I went into Upstart (first time for either of these two switches) and set them up and got the bottom switch to work, but only by enabling Rocker1 to transmit. That seems to work. Based on my limited knowledge of UPB, it seems that this only works because a) UpStart magically knew to create a link between these two and this link is sending UPB messages telling the other switch what to do.

So I have a couple of questions:

1. Is there any way to have the bottom switch actually use the red wire to tell the upper switch to turn on/off instead of using links? I don't mind that it works the way that it does, but I want to better understand the wiring for UPB. It seems like those remote wires should work, but perhaps not between two US2-40s?

2. The bottom switch has no load on it and I capped the brown wire with wire nut. I'm still a little nervous with live wire in the box. Is there a way to shut off load in control so that the brown wire is never live? I didn't see this option in UpStart.

3. I'm using UpStart without the wizard. Is it normal that it tries to guess the links you want? It went a little crazy and created links I had to then go remove.

Thanks for the all the help via the various UPB threads. I wouldn't have gotten this far!

What is the maximum operating temperature of the Elk M1 Gold? I am trying to figure out if I can put it into my attic.

Thank you

I'm trying to display a counter value on the KPNAV keypad when a F key is pressed. Seems simple enough. This works as expected with a KP1 or KP2 but only displays the F key name label on the KPNAV's display. Area 3 has the KP2, area 2 has two KPNAV's.

For example:

WHENEVER KEY F2 ON ANY KEYPAD ACTIVATES

THEN DISPLAY "Test string" IN Lab(Area 3) INDIFINITELY,[*]CLEARS, BEEP

This displays properly on the KP2 when using the F2 key on the KP2 or the F2 key on the KPNAV.

WHENEVER KEY F2 ON ANY KEYPAD ACTIVATES

THEN DISPLAY "Test string" IN House(Area 2) INDIFINITELY,[*]CLEARS, BEEP

This displays properly on the KPNAV only when using the F2 key on the KP2. When using the F2 key on either KPNAV it only displays the Key label on the display.

Does anyone know how to display a string on a KPNAV activated by a F key on a KPNAV keypad?

M1G Hardware 0.11, Firmware 5.2.8

KP2 Hardware 1.4, Firmware 2.1.48

KPNAV Hardware 4.0, Firmware 1.0.14

Thanks for any insight or work arounds to this issue,

--Brian

I would like to connect an Audio detection module from Xantech to my Secu-16 to detect when my record player is on.

I am using this Xantech module to detect audio along with their CBCSM1 block that outputs 12V when it detects audio. 

Apparently this is too much voltage for the Secu16. What's the best way to drop this down to a useful voltage that the Ocelot/Secu16 can accept? Perhaps a relay or a resistor?  I'm clearly not that good with circuitry.

I think Secu16 input is limited to less than 5 volts or is expecting a dry contact closure.

Writing this morning about a few national alarm monitoring companies. 

I have used one for the last 4-5 years and decided to look some more at the different pricing. 

Not sure if this is the appropiate place to post..

The structure / charges / features of the one's I looked at were similiar.  These are all companies that offer "dealer" and "DIY" services.  I am guessing that today many of the DIY folks here are using one of these national companies,  Most folks probably would be intererested in central station monitoring.

1 - Alarm Relay - advertise $8.95 per month

Actual cost for first year is $107.40 + $35.00 (one time installation fee) = $142.40 or $11.87 per month.

http://www.alarmrelay.com/best-alarm-monitoring-service-pricing/

Email notifications, monitored openings and closings, cellular monitoring and internet monitoring are al la carte extras. 

I did get a quote with the additional a la carte monthly charges and will add it here.

2 - Geoarm dot com - advertise $8.00 per month with a $1.00 activation fee

Not sure on much of the details and will add to this post. DIY is mentioned a lot on their web site.

http://www.geoarm.com/diy-alarm-monitoring.html

3 - DIY monitoring dot com - advertise $6.95 a month with the purchase of their internet device called With the Aegis BAT (Broadband Alarm Transmitter) at around $95.00.  Not too much more info on the wiring of the BAT box.

http://www.diy-monitoring.com/How-It-Works.html

4 - Alarm grid dot com - advertise self monitoring for $10.00 per month and UL listed central station monitoring for $15.00 per month.  They have a chart relating to what they offer for the price.

https://www.alarmgrid.com/monitoring

5 - PhantomLink dot com - this is just a DIY self monitoring solution and does not do UL listed central station monitoring.  It is a simple USB / ethernet device that plugs into your alarm panel.  Two of them are offered:  a USB connector for a PC at $39 and an ethernet device plugged into your alarm panel for $89.99

http://www.phantomlink.com/store.aspx

6 - Next alarm dot com - self monitoring $11.95 per month.  UL listed central station monitoring with E-mail notifications at $17.95 per month.  I am most familiar with this one.  Using it today.  Current lock in rate is $14.95 per month.

http://info.nextalarm.com/services

7 - American Digital - American Monitoring Services

http://www.alarmmonitoringservices.com/ourrates.html

This one is $5.95 per month.  $35.00 set up fee.  There are a few negative reviews about this one.  They do charge for alarm signs and an Insurance certificate.  Also an up front fee $19.95 for a leased digital diverter.  I decided to try this one service keeping the next alarm service on another home.  Set up was easy.  I did request a refund for the leased digital diverter which was done within a couple of hours of request.  I also forwarded the invoice statement and company info to my homeowners insurance agent and my agent said that would suffice (rather than a paid for "Insurance certificate").  There is a renewal clause stating that if you do not renew they they will auto bill your CC acount with a rate of $19.95 per month unless you prepay a term billing period.   The total charge for one year with set up fee of $35 is $106.40 which is $8.87 per month.  This does include an emailing to text or email setup similiar to next alarm dot com.  The web site info is similiar to next alarm dot com but a bit primitive. 

8. ....still checking out other companies....

Got a newborn on the way, and wife likes the wireless baby monitors with video that carry with you.  Or this one at the least:

http://store.apple.com/us/product/H7559VC/A/ibaby-monitor

Anybody have a better idea?  I was planning on an a video camera hooked up to our security DVR or an IP one hooked up to our our Synology server, but those don't have high WAF factors right now.

I've experimented with X10 controllers many years ago, so whatever experience I have is surely out of date. So I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction. I am getting ready to setup a new office/man cave. It measures roughly 12' x 16', and I would like to add some automation. I will probably start small and expand. My electronics will consist of the following:

• HDTV (Panasonic Viera Plasma, exact model not decided)
• Multi-media Server (running some version of Windows)
• XBox (XBox One most likely) with Kinnect for voice control
• Stereo System (2 zones? 1 for HDTV support and 1 for the work area?)
• Lights
• Temperature Control
• Window Blinds
• Security (depends as security will come with the office)

I am thinking of using Insteon products along with CastleOS for voice control. I will also most likely get CableCards for the multi-media server, but that will be decided upon once more information about the XBox One's set-top box integration is released. The Kinnect will be used for Skype as well. I will also likely add a webcam to the server so I can monitor remotely.

One end of the office will contain my desk and work area, while the rest of the room will be setup for TV viewing / socializing. I'm not sure exactly what overhead lighting will go into the office, but I do have the ability to select. There will also be floor lighting and possibly some color lights.

I'm thinking I may need a 2 zone sound system as I would like to have one setup for the TV and one setup for the work area. As an alternative I could just plug into my work computer.

Has anyone setup a system like this or an office system? Care to share thoughts and experiences?

Thanks in advance.

My name is Jason and I live in Australia.

I work for a company called NESS Corporation who manufacture sell and support the NESS/ELK M1 system in Australia.

I have been involved with the NESS M1 / Push Controller / Russound Audio / CCTV / Access Control etc etc for almost 10 years and run a complete home automation system at home.

I have been active on the NESS forums, the old ELK forums and know almost everything there is possibly to know about the M1 and related devices.

My system at home is fully integrated controlling lighting, HTPC media centres, TVs, Russound multi-room audio... basically anything that can be controlled is connected together and connected into the iPad. This is partly because it's something I love to do and because I work with the products and sell and support them I like to have a good handle on exactly how they work and what they can do.

Many of the Australian customers installing any of the above mentioned systems will know who I am and I hope to offer some support and assistance through these forums as well as gain knowledge to further my own persuits.

If you believe I can be of assistance, please feel free to contact me.